DINING ON CAMPUS: IT'S NOT ESCOFFIER, BUT...
LEAD: LUNCH time at Nostalgia U. Bound up the stairs, go through the doors, get in line, grab a tray, scoop up knife, fork and spoon, take a glass and then . . . the steam table: clouds billowing up around trays of mystery meat, ghosts of vegetables past and other indescribables. If you are lucky, the glass in front is fogged, sparing you the trauma of seeing the meal until it is on your plate.