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By Ian T. MacAuley
''MOUNTAINS are the beginning and end of all natural scenery,'' John Ruskin observed in the 1800's. In their slopes and valleys are found ''the noblest and best ground given to man,'' Ruskin continued. ''In these districts only, art of the highest kind seems possible.'' These words of the English art and social critic inspired another Briton, Ralph Whitehead, who set out in 1902 seeking such surroundings of unbridled scenic beauty in which to start an artsand-crafts colony. Whitehead found his dream in the eastern Catskill Mountains in Woodstock, N.Y., which today is two hours from Manhattan by car or bus and not far from half a dozen of the state's best skiing and cold-weather recreation areas. Woodstock is perhaps best known for its summer festivals, plays and easy life style. And English socialists, independent artisans, abstract and landscape artists, folk and rock musicians, beatniks and hippies have all helped give Woodstock a certain rebel reputation. But, on a cold, crisp winter weekend, the town seems at peace with itself, and offers opportunities to relax dreamily before a crackling fire in a country inn, to browse, without the summer's crowds, in art galleries, antiques stores and boutiques, to Metropolitan Baedeker amble through snowy woods, to ski downhill or cross-country, and to go sledding, snowmobiling, ice skating and hiking, with or without snowshoes.