SPECIALITY FOOD EXPLOSION: WHERE WILL IT END?
ONCE upon a time, when a gallon of gasoline cost 20 cents and mortgage rates were at 5 1/2 percent, mustard came in two flavors - French's and Gulden's. There was still only one kind of kind of bagel - hard. It was a time when we had just learned to distinguish between Emmenthaler and Gruyere and been introduced to red wine vinegar to use in place of white distilled. Food purchasing was simple, if uninspired. Today it is simply bewildering. We have entered the era of brand proliferation, the dozens of flavors and colors of basic products that set our heads spinning when we shop. According to Bill Hyde, the manager of Balducci's in Greenwich Village, this proliferation is due to more ''sophisticated tastes.'' ''Americans,'' he said, ''have discovered what Europeans have known about for a long time.'' But like so many things, Americans believe if a little is good, more is better. Or, as Ted Kronyn of Universal Foods Company, an importing firm, said, ''It doesn't take much for Americans to pick up on something and then you get a tremendous ride very ordinary.''