SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY SLUMP
By John Tagliabue, Special To the New York Times
If Switzerland's delicate economy has been described as a finely tuned watch, then something seems seriously wrong with what might be called its mainspring. From one point of view, ''the watchmaking industry is in a fundamentally healthy state,'' as Ulrich Spycher, chairman of Societe Suisse pour l'Industrie Horlogere, the group that makes Omega, Tissot and, in the United States, Hamilton watches, said in a recent interview. Indeed, Swiss watchmakers, in the rugged Jura Mountains, have managed to remain at timekeeping's technological cutting edge, and exclusive houses - like Piaget, Patek Philippe and a dozen others that produce luxury timepieces for the gilded set in New York or Riyadh, Saudi Arabia -are flourishing. Last year, the industry shipped $2.1 billion worth of watches abroad, more than 90 percent of production, according to Theo Radja, chief economist at the Watch Industry Association here. Their high added value, he said, puts them among Swiss industry's most lucrative foreign exchange earners.