SICILY'S SPIRITED COOKERY
By Mimi Sheraton
TO spend two weeks in Sicily sampling its food is to capture the flavor of its history. Just as traces of the Mediterranean crossroad's many invaders can be perceived through its arts, crafts and architecture and in the music, dialect and physiognomy of its people, so its cooking reflects their influences. Occupied by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Spaniards and Frenchmen, the island has evolved a cuisine that not only includes recipes taken intact from foreign kitchens but that also often combines the influences of several countries in a single dish. Consider, for example, couscous prepared with fish instead of lamb or mutton, as it is in North Africa. That seemingly unlikely dish is a specialty of Trapani. A picturesque area with windmills and wide, white beds of drying sea salt, Trapani makes a specialty of couscous (often spelled there as cuscusu, kuskus or cuscus) con pesce. The North African semolina that gives couscous its name is simmered over fish stock aromatic with cinnamon and cloves. Pasta con sarde, thick spaghetti or bucatini with sardines, is an all-Mediterranean dish, based on Italian pasta with fresh sardines that are standard in every country around the sea. The sauce includes the Greco-Arabic sweet accents of pine nuts, raisins or currants, olive oil, parsley and fennel, cloves and cinnamon. The Normans brought with them their dried salt codfish, stokfisk - stoccafisso in Italian - that is now a mainstay.