BASIC AMERICAN FOOD COMES BACK TO THE TABLE
By Bryan Miller
'' IT'S incredible how people soothe themselves with food from the past,'' said Lynne Bien, who turns out one of the most soothing chicken potpies around at her restaurant and carryout called Pie in the Sky on Third Avenue near 17th Street. ''Our taste buds are formed in our early years and no matter how sophisticated we become in dining, we always seem to have a hankering for those foods. I can see it in the reaction of our customers.'' At the seven-month-old Yellow Rose Cafe on Amsterdam Avenue near 81st Street, where one can find the most down- home smothered pork chops, fried chicken and mashed potatoes in New York, the Texas-born co-owner, Barbara Clifford, observes the same phenomenon. ''Everybody remembers when they were kids going over to grandma's house for dinner,'' she said, watching a table of customers excavate mountains of delightfully lumpy mashed potatoes. ''Some people get absolutely homesick over this kind of food. In fact, I almost called this place the Homesick Cafe.'' Amid all the interest over the latest culinary trends, such as Tex-Mex, Cajun and Creole, post-nouvelle French and nouvelle American, there seems to be a swelling undercurrent of nostalgia for the basic, ingenuous American foods of earlier generations. Pot roast, meat pies, fried chicken, mashed potatoes, meat loaf, croquettes, apple pie and even that inspired invention of the frugal housewife, bread pudding, all are becoming respectable again.