SOPHISTICATION SPICES SOUTHERN FOOD
By Craig Claiborne
IF a recent culinary foray to North Carolina is any indication, we are becoming one of the least parochial nations on earth where food is concerned. Not long ago, restaurant-going in any but the largest cities of the South was virtually unknown. The best food was thought to be in homes or in boarding houses, and most of that, while frequently wonderful, was standard: fried chicken and country ham, long-cooked greens, black-eyed peas, okra, grits, corn bread and spoon bread. For dessert, pecan pie, sweet potato pie, doughy fruit cobbler or angel food cake. Spices consisted mostly of black pepper in generous amounts, dried sage and herbs like fresh parsley and garlic. Those dishes still exist in the South, of course, and what's more they have now taken hold in other sections of the country. In New York City, for example, restaurants like Carolina, Gulf Coast, Cottonwood Cafe, Tennessee Mountain, Texarkana and Sylvia's serve quintessential Southern fare. At the same time, topnotch dining establishments are making their presence felt in the South. At the places I visited, in the Winston-Salem and Chapel Hill regions, food is expertly prepared, menus are alive with imagination and there is artistry in the presentation. North Carolina still boasts some of the finest barbecue and down-home cooking to be found anywhere, but the newest establishments are marvels of sophistication.