FOOD LABELS: HOW MUCH THEY DO, AND DON'T, SAY
In 1956, the story goes, Estes Kefauver, then a candidate for the Democratic Presidential nomination, stopped at the supermarket and bought a packaged cherry pie. The picture on the package showed a slice stuffed with cherries. The pie inside the box, however, was mostly crust. Furious, the Senator from Tennessee introduced the first comprehensive legislation against deceptive food labeling. This month, nearly 30 years later, Senator Howard M. Metzenbaum, Democrat of Ohio, is expected to introduce a bill expanding that legislation by requiring that the sodium, potassium and fat content of all foods be listed on the label. ''How can anybody resist the right of all Americans to know what's in the food they buy,'' the Senator said in a recent interview. ''Right now they do not.'' In the decades between these two events, there have been numerous changes in food labeling requirements. ''There is a lot more information on today's labels,'' said Ronald Brewington, director of the food standards and labeling division of the United States Department of Agriculture, which reviews 120,000 labels each month. ''The argument now is between whether there should be more or whether what is there is too confusing.''