Dining Out; CRITIC'S CHOICES ON COUNTY DINING
By M. H. Reed
ALHOUGH the county might lack the immense culinarq diversity of Manhattan - in authentic Greek, Korean, Scandanavian, Thai, Brazilian or Russian, for examples - many county restaurants present charms unlikely or wholly impossible in the city. Few Westchester restaurants can boast the professional lambency and subtleties of an experienced dining room staff, but many here can and do offer a luxuriance of space and leisurely dining and, often enough, a gracious generosity of view. We have here many cheery hearths in 18th-century parlors, weddingcake Victorian verandas overlooking so many acres of verdant prospect, lakesides affording views of swift, silent sailboats, cliffs high above the Hudson ice floes, fishing coves that seem almost of another country - or eccentric sybaritic monuments (that must have seemed good ideas at the time) to accumulators of rail, steel, tobacco or Hollywood fortunes. It might be hard for us not to consider view or cheerful ambiance exclusively in our deciding upon not only the best restaurants in Westchester but also the ''plainer'' few that nevertheless have impressed us with their special efforts. But trying to concentrate on the quality of the food as much as the total dining experience, we proffer, then, generally in order of preference, our judgment of the best dining for the year now ending.