BRUNCH IN NEW YORK: A NEW YEAR'S DAY ROUNDUP
By Mimi Sheraton
IF you still have a taste for festivity tomorrow morning, you might consider easing your way into 1982 by going out to one of the special brunches that will be served around town. Fortunately, it will be possible to do so whether your budget is lavish or modest, whether you want to dress up or dress down and whether you are looking for a setting that is spectacular, formal or comfortably casual. Because New Year's Day brunches could not be sampled in advance, the restaurants below were visited in recent months - some for Sunday brunch, others for weekday breakfasts, lunches or dinners, and dishes comparable to those on brunch menus were tried. Stylish but casual is the description that best suits the first group of restaurants, and, not too surprisingly, five are downtown in SoHo, Greenwich Village or TriBeCa, while the sixth is on the Upper East Side. The SoHo Charcuterie (195 Spring Street, corner of Sullivan Street, 226-3545; open noon to 5 P.M.) continues to combine one of the pleasantest settings with some of the most successful brunch dishes in town. This bright and cheerful cafe is an especially suitable setting in which to start the New Year. Although the service is often slow, it is friendly, unpretentious, concerned and polite, and though prices are fairly high, portions are large, and regulars tend to share appetizers and some main courses.