A CONSUMER'S GUIDE TO FRESH FISH
By Florence Fabricant
MORE than 175 million pounds of fish pass each year through the barnlike structures of the Fulton Fish Market in Manhattan, making it the largest central clearing house for fish in the country. According to an official of the Fishery Council, the public relations arm of the market, most of this fish is consumed within the New York metropolitan area. Going from stall to stall in the glare of bare electric bulbs early on a bone-chilling morning, one can see an astonishing array of fish - rosy red snappers and shimmering pompano from Florida, sleek mackerel with their distinctive mottlings, huge sections of mako shark and swordfish with skins like suede, boxes of tiny whitebait and silvery smelts, golden spotted cod, snowy halibut, dappled weakfish and salmon and charcoal-gray sea bass. Croaker, monkfish, skate wings and sand shark, among the less-common varieties, also seem plentiful. Lining the other side of South Street are the shellfish specialists and the filleting houses. Long-distance trucking, which has replaced the more romantic but less efficient boat as the means of transporting a large volume of fish to the central market, has made this variety possible. The city's diverse population, with ethnic groups whose menus regularly include mullet, conch, eel and sea urchins, insists on it.