FOUR-STAR TRUCK STOP WITH TRAILER-SIZE MENU
By William Serrin
TRUCK drivers are an independent, sometimes cantankerous bunch, and they do not agree on much. But many, certainly those who are regulars on Eastern Seaboard runs, do agree on this: the Jarrell Truck Plaza, at the Doswell exit of Interstate 95, a well traveled route that runs 1,700 miles from Houlton, Me., to Fort Pierce, Fla., offers some of the best truck-stop food in America. Jarrell's, which is about 20 miles north of Richmond, offers ribeye steak, chicken-fried steak, fried country ham, pit-cooked barbecue pork, batter-dipped flounder, fried oysters, crab cakes, made-to-order cheeseburgers, mashed potatoes, corn muffins, hush puppies, stewed tomatoes, beans, hot cakes with maple syrup, cream chipped beef on toast or biscuits, eggs with bacon or sausage, pork brains or corned-beef hash, home fries, grits, bread pudding, shortcake, cobbler, pie -about everything, it would seem, that a hungry driver might have a hankering for after a long stint manhandling an 18-wheel tractor-trailer. The establishment is especially noted for its Southern fried chicken, country-style steak, hamburger steak with onions and gravy, and homemade rolls and biscuits. Gordon Taylor, the food-service director and a former trucker himself, takes pride in the food. ''I don't believe anybody can beat my fried chicken, no sir,'' he said. The biscuits seem of fine quality, too, warm, light and flavorful - like grandmothers make.