A CITY THAT RESOUNDS WITH PIPE ORGAN MUSIC
SOME 200 years ago, Mozart, writing to his father, referred to the pipe organ as ''the king of instruments,'' and the characterization has clung ever since to this biggest, most complex, most expensive and, for some, the most mystifying of musical instruments. Through the centuries, these ''kings'' have been been created, used and preserved mostly by churches, and opportunities to hear a fascinating variety of them abound in New York churches every weekend. But this weekend, as happens occasionally, another opportunity is available. Tomorrow night, there will be an organ recital at Alice Tully Hall, one of the city's two concert halls that have pipe organs (the other is the Metropolitan Museum's Rogers Auditorium). The recital on the Theodore Kuhn instrument in Tully Hall will be played by Fred Lallerstedt. The program will offer Mozart's Fantasy in F minor, Mendelssohn's Sonata No. 4, Franck's ''Grande Pi ece Symphonique,'' Haydn's Organ Concerto in C (with a chamber ensemble) and David Loeb's ''La Passacaglia Nuova.''
