FAVORITE FOODS TO MARK A CHANGE OF SEASONS
PERHAPS it has to do with the nature of the holiday: happy and carefree yet just a little wistful. In the mind at least, if not on the calendar, Labor Day weekend marks the end of summer, the last chance to celebrate the season in the sun before the cooler, and busier, days of fall move in. To me, there are dishes that are ideal for this time. They are cold or room-temperature foods that are appropriate for yet another picnic or for situations that call for something more elegant. None are complicated and all can be made in advance, which is a boon to the busy host or hostess. And each one has a special connotation, a longtime association with times past. These are dishes that conjure up pleasant memories of travels abroad or of a Southern childhood. In early youth, my idea of heaven was a trip to New Orleans. These visits, which were rare, occasionally included a stop at Ar-Recipes are on page C8. naud's, a restaurant in the French Quarter. The meals there were unforgettable and the most memorable dish of all was the shrimp remou lade, a fiery and delicious concoction that I would eat slowly and carefully, savoring each mouthful.