GROWING U.S. TASTE FOR MUSHROOMS
MUSHROOM mania is the current epidemic sweeping through American produce markets. Indeed, the abundance in specialty-food shops of what were once called toadstools - chanterelles, boletes, oyster mushrooms, morels, cauliflower mushrooms, shiitakes, meadow mushrooms and many other varieties - makes it hard to believe that there was a time when even commonplace fat, white, fresh cultivated mushrooms were unknown in our supermarkets. ''Americans went from not knowing anything to going wild about the stuff,'' said Giorgio DeLuca of Dean & DeLuca in SoHo. ''I don't know why - maybe it's part of the health thing.'' His food shop at 121 Prince Street (Greene Street) has, for a number of years, stocked fresh wild mushrooms, imported and domestic.