LEMONS MAKE SOVIET ARCTIC LIFE A LITTLE SWEETER
By Philip Taubman, Special To the New York Times
Nearly 200 miles above the Arctic Circle, thousands of miles from the nearest citrus orchard, Murmansk is swamped with bright yellow lemons these days. Unlike Moscow, where shoppers have not seen lemons for weeks, there are bushels of them in the stores and open-air markets here. In restaurants, lemon slices are served with tea and lemon wedges with fish. The ubiquitous lemons are a small reflection of the tremendous effort the Kremlin makes to maintain Murmansk as the world's largest Artic metropolis. Situated on the 69th parallel, 2,000 miles above the latitude of New York, Murmansk is nevertheless the only ice-free port in northern European Russia, thanks to the temperate influence of the Gulf Stream, which expires at the tip of the Kola Peninsula. #4,500 Ships in One Year The waterfront is crowded with fish-processing plants and warehouses. Dozens of trawlers are tied up alongside each other at the dock, forming a thicket of derricks and masts. Freighters loaded with iron ore steam toward the open sea, headed for East Germany. Huge vessels, like beached whales, rest awkwardly in dry dock.