A CULINARY STAR RISES IN THE LONE STAR STATE
WHERE the kitchen is concerned, one of the brightest stars in the Lone Star State is 34-year-old Stephan Pyles. This young chef has come a long way from his formal training in voice and piano. He has been praised from one coast to the other. I dined at his stylish dining establishment here, the Routh Street Cafe, sampling his golden gazpacho with chilies and shrimp tossed in chopped fresh coriander; honey-fried chicken with thyme and mint sauce; quail with goat cheese and black-eyed peas vinaigrette; blue-cornmeal muffins, and chocolate-pecan cake with tropical-fruit custard sauce. All that praise was not by any means undeserved adulation: Mr. Pyles raises Southwestern cuisine to the level of art. Co-owner of the Routh Street Cafe (pronounced ruth) with John Dayton, Mr. Pyles plans to open a second restaurant nearby this coming autumn with Mr. Dayton.
