EATERIES AIM TO ENTERTAIN
Ed Debevic's is a zany 1950's diner where the cooks heap on the meat loaf, the waitresses wear saddle shoes and a brightly colored sign reads, ''Ed's Chili Dog: The Cadillac of Chili Dogs.'' A half mile south stands Shaw's Crab House, a dimly lit seafood emporium reminiscent of the haunts that gangsters frequented in the 1940's. On the north side of town, Un Grand Cafe, with its brass fixtures and festive paintings, recreates the fin de siecle gaiety of a Paris bistro. Although very different, these colorful restaurants have two things in common: they usually have lines out the door, and they are owned by Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, the brainchild of Richard Melman, an irreverent 44-year-old restaurant impresario. Mr. Melman and his chief rivals on the Chicago scene, Larry and Mark Levy, are among the leaders of a small, aggressive group of young restaurateurs around the nation who are putting together empires of 10 or 20 restaurants that place as much emphasis on fun and fanfare as on food.