A FINE AMERICAN HAND WITH TRADITIONAL FOOD
''WHENEVER I swallow, it spurs thoughts for new dishes,'' Jasper White said half jokingly, ''and eating is one of the most rewarding aspects of travel.'' Mr. White, the 34-year-old owner of Restaurant Jasper in Boston and considered one of the foremost young chefs on the East Coast, was in the midst of preparing a dish of Portuguese inspiration, made with pork and littleneck clams. He had brought all his provisions from Boston and set up in my kitchen. ''I first tasted the original during a brief visit to Europe when I made a quick side trip to Portugal's Algarve coast,'' he said. On home territory, the dish is actually a stew of fried cubed pork with bits of ham, hot red pepper, garlic and tomatoes. ''When I returned home,'' he continued, ''I decided to create my own version, American style.'' Mr. White's translation is pork chops, seared on both sides and served with a savory clam sauce made with local clams, clam juice, lots of sliced garlic, pork stock and a splash of domestic white wine.