Brash Clubs or Haute Cuisine For Sultry Summer Nights
LEAD: IN this summer of discontent for so many restaurants and clubs, not all is gloom and thunder. Sure, Il Palazzo has gone belly up. Maxwell's Plum has succumbed. Nobody talks about Nell's or Bice anymore, and there are empty banquettes at the Four Seasons and the Quilted Giraffe. But the Darwinian struggle rages on, and, while the pace has slowed, the fickle populace still has an insatiable taste for adventure.
