In Pursuit of the 20th Century Express) mm
LEAD: To Jack Cowart, one of the curators of 20th-century art at the National Gallery, it is ''a kind of coming-out party.'' Cobbled together during the last quarter-century, the museum's collection of paintings and sculptures since 1900 has over the years been displayed only sporadically, shunted aside whenever room is needed for blockbuster touring exhibitions.