With Sauces, It's No Longer Better Dead Than Red
OVER the last two decades, the red sauce river has flowed like a natural boundary between the pristine gourmet state and the less discriminate masses. Red sauce constituted treason under the gourmet flag, recalling the archaic days of breaded, deep-fried veal, leaden meatballs, limp spaghetti or -- quelle horreur -- an easy, inexpensive meal from a can. "Insecure foodies sneer at anything swamped in tomato sauce," said Raymond Sokolov, whose social history of food, "Why We Eat What We Eat," will be published by Summit Books next week.