A Leisured Stay In the Lap of Luxury
IT was condition orange, shading to red. The room-service waiter at the Essex House was on his knees trying to free a tricky latch on the rolling breakfast table and remove its portable heating unit. But the thing wouldn't budge. He looked up, stricken, and said, "Oh, sir, I know, I am taking too long." The genuine anguish in his voice made it clear that I would be well within my rights to horsewhip him on the spot. And I wondered: What sadist is in charge of the hotel's training program? After a 20-month renovation costing more than $75 million, the Essex House on Central Park South has thrown open its doors. Once familiar to television viewers as the hotel where "Saturday Night Live" parked its guests, it was bought by Nikko Hotels International, a subsidiary of Japan Airlines, in 1985. In 1989, the company began a total overhaul of the 60-year-old hotel that has left only the Art Deco elevator doors intact. The reborn Essex House has new plumbing, heating, ventilation and air-conditioning systems, a new look (sumptuous and marbled), fewer and larger rooms and standards of service so high that the lesser staff walks in fear.