Understudies By Choice: Chefs Who Really Do The Cooking
NOW to praise the sous-chef, the unsung hero of the stove. The one whose hand tends the flame but whose name remains obscure, seldom emblazoned on a starched white jacket, seldom embossed on a menu. A sous-chef's position is the same in every kitchen: he outranks all its cooks except the head chef, but his role can vary. The kitchens of large hotels, for instance, require a sous-chef with a streak of General Patton to deploy the culinary troops. In restaurants where the chef is consumed by administrative and social obligations, the sous-chef often becomes a Cromwell, turning flashes of chefly inspiration into dinner.
