Under Its Calm, Sarajevo Hides Deep Bitterness
For more than 1,000 days, Sarajevo has not been this quiet. Children on sleds slide noiselessly over the snow. Trams glide by. At night the lights on the hills climb silently toward the stars, and not a mortar round or a sniper's shot disturbs the peace. The cafes that were once the heart of this city's life are almost full again. A take-out pizza service is doing a reasonable business. Food does not abound, but there is enough to eat. Among the United Nations armored personnel carriers on the streets, there are now a few private cars.