The Refugees Look Back at a Wasteland
Kosovo refugees newly allowed by Serbs to enter Albania say province's interior is wasteland of burned villages, empty of ethnic Albanians but swarming with Serbian forces; says Serb tank columns are moving in all directions and troops are taking up quarters in ravaged homes; accounts suggest Serbs are still able to move and mass troops despite NATO air strikes and seem to be digging in against possible ground attack; also suggest widespread destruction would make it hard for refugees to ever rebuild lives in Kosovo; photo (M)