The Kitchen That Heated Up Downtown
By Steven Kurutz
DURING the summer of 1980, Lynn Wagenknecht spent most of her time on West Broadway between Duane and Thomas Streets, helping to renovate an old cafeteria that would soon become her first restaurant. The neighborhood was peopled by municipal and factory workers during the day and, at night, by no one. Each evening after work, Ms. Wagenknecht and her partners would step onto a dark and barren street. ''You'd see the trade towers to the south and the Empire State to the north, and nothing else,'' she said. The restaurant, modeled after the brasseries of Paris, was none other than Odeon, and it became no less than a late-night clubhouse for a whole generation of New Yorkers, the place where the go-go 80's played out. The art dealer Mary Boone was a regular, as were Lorne Michaels, John Belushi and Jay McInerney, whose novel ''Bright Lights, Big City'' featured an image of the restaurant on its cover. Odeon's chef, Patrick Clark, was young and relatively inexperienced, but he would soon redefine French cuisine, developing an elegant but unfussy version that jibed perfectly with the casual spirit of the times.