COOKING FOR A JOYOUS EASTER
Robert Farrar Capon, an Episcopal priest and food writer, is the author of ''Supper of the Lamb'' (Harcourt Brace Jovanovich). By ROBERT FARRAR CAPON WHEN it comes to celebrating Easter, household cooks have long known what the church has only lately reaffirmed. The celebration cannot be confined to Sunday alone; it permeates even the somber events of the week before. Prior to the liturgical changes of recent decades, Holy Week tended to be observed as if the Resurrection hadn't yet occurred - or, indeed, as if there were doubt about whether it would happen at all. Palm Sunday was a time for elation; the Last Supper, for poignancy; the Trial, outrage; the Crucifixion, horror; and the Death, depression. Only then was the joy of the Resurrection allowed to break through.